The Wheel and Axle

I first visited Apo Island, a popular no-frills destination especially for divers, back in November 2012 with AJ.

It was a morning side trip during our vacation in Zamboanguita just outside Dumaguete. Thalatta, the resort we stayed in, faced Apo Island and is about a half hour boat ride away. That 2012 Apo trip was memorable; we nearly missed the famed pawikan (sea turtles) because our boatman was late and you had to get there really early to witness these lovely creatures. Thankfully, we still caught up with a few and snorkelled beside them (no touching allowed).

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On Tuesday morning, we woke up before the crack of dawn for the busy day ahead. It was great that we were staying in U Pension House, a convenient and recommended hostel across Silliman, as it afforded us quick access to rides in the wee hours of the morning.

Our first stop was Bais City, where a pre-arranged boat ride with a local would bring us to the heart of Tañon Strait, the strip of water that separates Negros from Cebu Island. What we wanted to see were the popular sandbar of Manjuyod as well as dolphins in the wild. The former is easy, while the latter can be random. We were lucky to have caught the latter early in the day.

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That’s Siquijor in the backdrop.

I have been to Dumaguete twice before.

The first was in 2010 with Bj and Norlan as we did a twin trip of Dumaguete and Siquijor. In Dumaguete, we stayed in Hotel Nicanor and explored the city to see Rizal Boulevard, Silliman University, and the famed Dumaguete Belfry. We also did a side trip to Lake Balinsasayao, which lies within the municipalities of San Jose, Sibulan, and Valencia and about an hour from Dumaguete. In Siquijor, which deserves a separate article on its own, we stayed in Coco Grove Beach Resort (highly recommended) and went around the island to see Cambugahay Falls, Lazi Church, and the gargantuan and fascinating balete tree.

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Perth Paradise

From Bacolod very early Sunday, we made our way south via a 5-hour bus ride to Sipalay, a coastal city (don’t expect a Manila or even a Bacolod) home to some lovely scenic waters: beaches, lagoons, marshes, and the like. The resorts here are ubiquitous, one after the other.

Hiring a tricycle, we made our way to Tinagong Dagat Resort and the popular Perth Paradise Resort for some sightseeing. Both are open to day tourists who either want to just see the views or do some swimming. Tinagong Dagat’s view of its inland waters is good, but Perth Paradise’s view of islets that are reminiscent of the Bohol Chocolate Hills is spectacular.

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During our transit in Bacolod on Saturday, we also made our way to the popular Ruins in nearby Talisay City. Known as the “Taj Mahal of Negros,” this famous tourist site has a romantic and tragic history behind it.

Built in 1920 by the wealthy sugar plantation haciendero Don Mariano Ledesma Lacson, it was meant to be for his first wife, Maria Braga. However, she passed away before the mansion was even completed… and she had been pregnant with their eleventh child at the time of her death.

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Welcome to the City of Smiles!

Next stop on our Negros road trip was Bacolod City, the capital of Negros Occidental and known as The City of Smiles.

We went there on Saturday, coming from Lakawon Island, and checked into Planta Centro Bacolod. It was a last minute hotel choice; we booked it as we were literally getting off the bus. Every other place we tried contacting was fully-booked, from hostels to more upscale places. Nonetheless, Planta was a serendipitous choice, a quaint plantation-themed hotel with reasonable prices and which was quite cozy. Given that Negros is known for sugarcane plantations that stretch back to yesteryear, it helped make us feel the Bacolod spirit even more.

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Lakawon Island in Cadiz City, Negros Occidental is just around 1.5 hours from Bacolod by land (plus a 10-15 minute boat ride). The private island is starting to gain attention because the place is beautful and is fairly accesible. The beach, while not Boracay or Palawan, has some good sand and the waters are fairly clear and lovely.

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